adrianaindubai

Yesterday, I was walking into the new dorm building (I live in the old dorm building) to a friend's room and I saw MEN in the building and felt shocked. Then, I felt a little disturbed because there wasn't the customary bell to warn us that there were men present. I think I am going to have a major case of culture shock when I get back to the Bay.

Muscat... Where to begin...

What I learned about the Arab World from Muscat: I finally realize why women cover--Too many Arab men are pigs to women who are by themselves.

I went with the best intentions, and after talking with Al, also with the impression that I would be perfectly safe traveling there on my own. It turns out that I had more problems in Muscat in the less than two days that I was there than in the four days that I was Instanbul or than the entire time that I have been here in Dubai.

I should also add that Muscat was by far the prettiest Arab city that I have seen and for all the horrible people that I met, I also met some very nice people. The city was tranquil (while I was left alone), not overly developed with gargantuan, modern eye sores or worse yet, shopping malls as in Dubai. Walking on the Corniche next to the water, one can see old forts nestled in the rugged mountains that surround the different sections of the city. The water is impeccably clean, especially when one considers that this is the capital city of the country. Parks, streets, shops, the souk, are kept spotless. You can see men wandering about in their dishtashes and women in shaylas and abaiyas. Tons of small museums, the beach, the souk, walking the corniche, seeing the fish market, going to Hadiqa Al Riyam (Al Riyam Park) and seeing the view, catching a glimpse of his majesty Sultan Qaboo's palace, and eating out at quaint restaurants are the activities that Muscat boasts. I would highly recommend Muscat and Oman in general for group travel, couples, or single men traveling alone. DO NOT GO AS A WOMAN BY YOURSELF.

The first day, most everything was closed because it was the Muslim Sabbath (Friday and my first day of the week). In the morning, I managed to go to the Fish Market where I saw mountains of fish, crabs, shrimp, etc. Probably the most beautifully caught and largest selection of fish that I have ever seen in my life (and I've been to Pike Place Market and San Francisco, and San Pedro's, etc.).



Then, I walked up the corniche and tried to go to the older Muscat neighborhood and some of the museums there. On my way there, I met some boys/young men (ages 16-19 max). I asked them where some things were in Arabic and they didn't seem to understand, but they tried their best and then wanted a picture... And then became forceful. And finally one of them kept holding my arm tightly and I twisted out of it... And they were coming too near for comfort and I inched away... And then after I took the picture that one of them had been bugging me about, he slapped me in the face because I wouldn't delete it. Yes, that's right--SLAPPED ME. First time in my life. A police man was in the area, I asked him to tell them to please leave me alone and stop them from following me. To my everlasting appreciation, he did. No questions asked. THANK G0D.

I continued down to old Muscat, past Al Riyam because it was closed. Heck...Everything was closed, but I got to see his majesty's palace, which was surrounded by men who didn't blink twice at my coming so close. This man is very well loved, so I am not surprised that no one would suspect anything. And, granted I am a girl. By this time, I had been harassed enough that I choose to cover. I met a Hungarian man and we decided to share a taxi up to Ruwi and had lunch at a cheap restaurant up there. I had fish and was excellent. The price for my whole meal, including water rice, fish, salad, lentils and juice was less than 3 dollars.

From there, we went to the national museum which was also closed and from there decided to try one more museum (he was leaving that afternoon). We made our way to the military museum, with which I was very impressed.



There was a nice Omani that guided me around the museum and I spoke to him in my poor, broken Arabic. He was very nice and I LOVED THE MUSEUM. I would go back just for the Museum and beauty of Muscat. Just not by myself.

I bought myself dinner at a supermarket because I didn't feel like sitting down anywhere and then headed to the souk after setting some stuff down in the room. The souk was not very big, but it actually had locals and was more traditional. A pity I forgot my camera when I went there, but one can google it. And really, it's just more shops, but it was much nicer than the ones in Istanbul and Dubai and you don't get harassed nearly as much. They understand no. That was pleasant.

The next day, I tried my luck at Al Riyam again, but it was closed. However, the walk on the Corniche was lovley:






I am sorry to say that my pictures on the first day got deleted. I don't know why, but my camera decided to act as if it were full with only a couple dozen cameras. Dad, you should look into that when I get back because this thing held four hundred when I went to Turkey.

I made my way to the Natural History Museum. The taxi charged me twice what I know the usual rate is... grrr.... they take advantage of tourists because there are no meters in the taxis. And I was smart enough to ask the hotels about the usual fee so I knew it.

Here are a couple pictures from the musem, which was not large, but quaint and well put together for its size.




Then, I headed towards the beach and tried to make it to this one restaurant Al wanted me to visit. I didn't make it there because the taxi got lost, but really did try and wasn't trying to screw me and was a generally nice man. But, he wasn't patient with my Arabic, spoke too fast in colloquial and had no English whatsoever.

A-Shatta Al Qurm (the beach Al recommended) would have been pleasant, but I was propositioned while I still even had my jeans on... TWICE. Once when I was heading out with my head and body totally covered. Here are some pictures. One even has a small picture of a man in the corner. That was one of them. Yes, he is in traditional Omani clothes. Yes, this was also my first time being propositioned and I understood his Arabic and the words "kiss, kiss" and hand gestures from him to know what he was asking. The second guy mentioned the word "a'laqa," which means relationship. EWWW!!!!
However, the beach was pretty.





After the first guy left, I took off my top shirt (keeping on my tank top so that my stomach and back wouldn't be exposed) and jeans so that I could get a little wet. I stayed like this for less than twenty minutes. I then fully covered (hair and all), and left the beach. On my way out, the second guy who mentioned relationship harassed me. I grabbed a taxi back to my hotel (when I had check out in the morning they had forgotten to give me back my drivers license and there was no way in Heaven or Hell that I was leaving it in Oman) and headed back to Ruwi. Here are some last minute pictures before I left.




At any rate, that was Muscat. It was a beautiful city, but as I told Al, although I will go back someday to Oman, I will NEVER EVER again go on my own.

I am finally going to go to Muscat tomorrow, sick or not sick because I refuse to leave the region without seeing a little bit of Oman, which apparently has more authentic Arab culture than anywhere else in the Gulf short of Saudi... and I won't go to Saudi Arabia because I am not terribly keen on the way that they treat women. But Oman and the U.A.E. and Bahrain and Qatar are just fine from my point of view on that front.

Any way, I am going to post a couple more pictures below of Dubai (just for you Monica!). I am a bit melancholy that I will be leaving soon as I have made so many friends, but I will be more than happy to return to U.S. classes and my honors thesis and all of that wonderful jazz.

I may have to come back sometime, but I don't know when or how (especially on the money front). My goal in the mean time is to convince people to visit my part of the world, even though some people don't really want to go to the U.S.

Well... On to pictures.


This is a lovely picture of my university at night.




This picture was taken from the bar of the top floor of the Radisson where many of us Study Abroads go to hang out (there isn't much of a choice as it is here, Al-Merkazz or Subway). The picture overlooks the major road near our University, Sheikh Zayed Road. Too bad you can't really see the miles of construction around it that make getting anywhere next to impossible.



The Study Abroads at Starbucks in the Mall of the Emirates. Incidentally, Starbucks is the only place that I have found which serves soy milk (no charge). However, a hot chocolate costs about 5 dollars for a tall (can anyone say "rip-off?")


The Marina... another "close" hangout that involves walking through about 15 minutes of open construction areas and dodging cars in the roads (the only solid areas with no holes in the ground). It's a nice place to hang out, but food is about 26-50 durhams a place (think 10 to 15) for the okay restaurants. But, they do have Thai and wannabe Chinese, wannabe Japanese, fake Mexican, "Argentine" (but the closest thing to Argentine food that I saw was Kebab pretending to be Argentine food), and Arab food.





This is a picture from my room (first floor) of the security guard who checks us in and out, keeps track of curfews if we have them (thank you Mom and Dad for not trying to impose one on me), and also prevents boys from coming within 20 feet of the gate. Oh, and he'll blow a whistle at you if you are hugging a guy and he sees you. Fortunately, after one of my friends who happens to be Nigerian and has the famed Nigerian female person to match yelled at him (and after he realized that she was my friend), he has stopped blowing the whistle at me. She threatened to expose some of the illegitimate stuff that was going on involving coercing money from students. You have no idea about the kind of power that these guys can have.


This was PART of the buffet offered during Ramadan when the Sheikh's son came. He only came for a few minutes and then darted off to what "must" have been an important gathering. It was Ramadan so I will give him a break. The food was especially good since I had fasted that day, but I kept getting sick after doing the full day fasts, so I had to give that up (oh, and by sick I meant my stomach had severe issues with me).



A better picture of the Mall of the Emirates, although this does not even come close to showing you the whole of it. Nooooo... No mall is just a mall in Dubai. It is a full on shopping extravaganza. I think most shop-a-holics would love it here. Shopping feels like it is the only thing to do other than party and go out to eat (hence why I try to get my butt out of Dubai on the weekends).

Alright, well, that is all folks! I'll try to convince Al to give me the pictures from Fujairah. He had an underwater camera so the pictures should be AMAZING. That and he is an excellent photographer.

Here's one last picture of him... and then I'm running to political science.

Hello Everyone! I am currently in the capital of the U.A.E., Abu Dhabi, writing from my friend Amal's room on her computer and staying with her family. I just wanted to write from somewhere other than Dubai during my stay here. Abu Dhabi is pretty and it is currently national day, but it looks as if I am going to be rained out most of today, which is said because I was hoping to walk around the Corniche (park/waterfront stretch). The city is prettier because urban planning was actually implemented here. Streets make sense and finding places appears to be fairly easy because the streets do not look like someone vomited on a a map and decided to make roads like that... You'd have to actually have lived in Dubai to know what I mean. Other than that, Abu Dhabi has a nice waterfront area and is considerably calmer than hectic Dubai. There is some construction here, but it pales in comparison to the monstrous number of cranes that you find in Dubai.

I must say that being in an Arab country has distinct advantages for women. This may sound odd, but it is true. So women have to cover and gender separation is important. There can be benefits from all this. For example, yesterday, when I was waiting to take the bus between Dubai and Abu Dhabi, they let the women on first for seating at the FRONT of the bus. There were easily ten times the number of guys waiting as girls, and we got to get seats while others had to wait for the next bus. I wasn't even taking anyone's seat because there was a glass divider between us and the next section. The only man sitting in our section was a man with his wife and baby girl (which is allowed because our section can also hold families). In the end, I waited less than 10 minutes to get a seat on the bus and was on the next one out of Dubai. I'll be taking that same bus back tonight.

Unfortunately, I have a group project that is due on Monday and people seem to be doing their best in procrastinating. Mind you, I had the bulk of my part ready WEEKS ago and people are still getting me their parts. I grant you a couple of my partners are also working, but it is simply unfair. I used my time wisely and choose to finish things before rather than go out because that was what I was supposed to do. I even lost a night's worth of sleep before I left for Turkey because I made a point of getting my part done on top of all the other assignments that I was obligated to complete. Students here drive me insane (for the most part). I can't wait for UCLA assignments again, where you rise and fall on your own... or if it is a group assignment, almost everyone is as eager to recieve an A as you are. Until then, I am kicking back, working on other things and enjoying the rain outside.

Peter's party was a blast and I felt much better after baking apple pie. I miss cooking. I can't wait to just sit one afternoon with a couple of movies and roll out noquis (gnocci). That will make me feel better. Except, I can wait because as much as I want to leave this school and return to the warm cacoon that is UCLA (for the classes, competent professors, etc), I am going to miss the friends that I have made here and the traveling on weekends and the depth of culture (outside of Dubai).
I am hoping to finally make it to Abu Dhabi this weekend and hopefully Muscat next weekend. Then, I will spend my last weekend in Dubai.
OH! But I went to Fujairah this weekend and I went snorkling (FINALLY) and I saw a couple of sea turtles (was within a foot of them), a shark (from faraway), and tons of gorgeous fish. I don't think I have ever seen so much diversity while scuba diving. We (Al, Garrett, and I) were right by Snoopy Island and it was soooo exhausting as we swam around this small island. Al took pictures under water, so I will post them as soon as he develops them and scans them. He was playing with his latest toy, a camera that he bought for a few hundred durhams that allows him to take pictures underwater. The day was just amazing and it was nice to escape the guadiness and overwhelming shopping, Western buy buy buy culture of Dubai. In fact, with the exception of Sharjah, I like the other places that I have been or driven through better than Dubai... I feel less drowned out by the malls and the consumer culture. It is going to be sad leaving. Very sad.
Back to my business final.

I feel really lonely at the moment because I have this nagging feeling in the pit of my stomach that I should be home right now, sleeping... and planning on waking up at 7 a.m. to start baking bread, trussing the bird, and rolling out pie.
So, what did I do? I went out and had mashed potatoes today for lunch. I literally just ordered a side and they must have thought that I was crazy. Then, after work, I went to Carrefour and bought all the necessaries to make apple pie. I am going to make it in the dorm kitchen after class. I'll need to clean it first though (I have started to become my mother).
I miss home. I miss cooking. I miss my friends and family.
I should be home right now. And all I know is that I am not.
...

At least Al is dragging me to Peter's party so I won't be alone tonight.

I don't feel like working, so here is my Turkey update:
Day One: I arrived super early in the morning because Air Arabia is a super cheap economy airline (and a voice comes on saying a Muslim prayer before take off and landing). When I woke up, I had a quick breakfast at the hostel (I stayed at Bahaus) and took off for Tokapki (or however you spell it) Palace. It was incredible! The architecture was beautiful, not overwhelming, and sleek. There were displays of the royal jewels that included an 86k diamond (which could easily pay my way for the rest of my life), royal potraits, armour, religious relics and more aside from the tour of the Harem and the gardens with a view overlooking the Bosphorous. While I was there, it started pouring down rain. The rain made me happy because it had been a few months since I'd seen any.
After that, I made my way to the Blue Mosque which was surprisingly dark. Some guy guided me over and then offered to take me into his shop (a common tactic in Turkey). I ended up going to the bazaar afterwards and there was nothing really to see. I ended up not really getting anything for me, but I bought a couple of things to give people back home.
Then, I went to the underground Cistern and walked around underneath for 1/2 hour. It was very "Phantom of the Opera"-esque. I found it hauntingly mysterious and dark. There was also water dripping through the crevices as the rain continued to wreak havoc on tourists above.
I then stopped at Pudding Shop on the way back. I was going to to make it to the Grand Bazaar, but it was pouring down to hard. I stopped at the tombs of various sultan's or what have you as meandered back to my hostel. I then took a nap and chilled out there for the rest of the evening as I talked to various intriguing personalities. I think I don't want to stay anywhere other than a hostel ever again (honeymoon, possible exception). I had soooo much fun!

Day 2: I was SUPPOSEDLY scheduled to go see the Temples this morning and ended up instead stomping around Taksim square until I was finally able to get a phone and call the Jewish Center. They rescheduled me for the next day, but that meant that I was only able to see one. BOO them. Next time, I am calling and reminding Jewish centers that I have been checked out the day BEFORE I go. I strongly advise you to do the same.
I finally relaxed after talking to them and toured Taksim instead. I walked into an Orthodox Christian Church that was quite pretty, but they wouldn't let me take pictures. Since I had wanted to scope out a church any way, it was a pleasant surprise.
Then, I met Anna, a Slovenian girl from the Hostel and we went to take pictures and the Galata Tower followed by a fish sandwich under the Galata bridge and headed towards the Spice Bazaar (which I kept calling souk-the Arab word for bazaar). She pretended to be Israeli and I pretended to be Venezuelan. We talked in Spanish to try to get away from the vendors, but they spoke that as well! I went to back up plan number two: Arabic. It's too hard to learn even a'mia (colloquial) for the average Joe so I doubted that they spoke a word. I was right. We also stopped by the "new" mosque, which was still 500 years old. I again, hung out at the hostel that night. However, that day, the hostel manager started hitting on me while we all tried Turkish Raki (licorish flavored nastiness... very strong and only diluted with water, blegh). He even tried to kiss me, so I knew I wasn't imagining things! EWWW!

Day 3: I wander about with my Canadian Friend Casey to the Hagia Sophia. It was nice enough, but the melange of covered up Christian art with the huge Muslim boards about the Caliphs and Mohammed were really an eyesore. We then went to the Grand Bazaar, which is completely touristy and dull. Just more of the same people trying to sell you stuff. I then go to my appointment to Neve Shalom Temple. The people there were very nice and spoke Spanish with me (they knew no English, but Spanish?!?!). It was broken, but I was able to understand that there had been a bombing there and at another temple a few years back. Apparently more Muslims died protecting the place than Jews, although one pregnant Jewish woman had died in the first blast. It was very sobering.
I was then directed to the Jewish Museum, which was small but proudly told about the great treatment that Jews had recieved in Turkey. A lot of the religious stuff I already knew. It was still very nice to get a more detailed history. I then met Casey back a the hostel and we went for a Turkish bath. I got reprobated by the hostel manager who liked me for wanting to go to a separate gender as opposed to a mixed bath. It wasn't even his business! Idiot. According to him, I have become too conservative. Well, you go from a city where you can be arrested for making out in public or for being in the opposite gender's house (they don't always invade your space on the last one, but they can if there are only two people and are more likely to do so irrespective of the number of people for hotel rooms)! I must say, I need to go back to Turkey just for the baths. It was amazing. The woman sang to me in the most chilling and penetrating voice while she scrubbed me. I felt that I wanted her to be my grandmother while she scrubbed me down and sang to me. I couldn't understand what she was saying, but the world made sense for that brief moment of time. After that, we went and had dinner. The restuarant was a point and eat service restuarant and we split the two plates so that we could try more.
That night, he and I strolled our way around Istanbul and ended up buying and splitting a bottle of wine before we had more interesting conversations upstairs.
Day 4: After a late start, Casey and I crossed the Bosphorous over to the Asian side, meandered a bit, had lunch (they guy overcharged us but it was 11 lira so oh well), and headed back. We went to the Islamic Art Museum, toured about a bit, and then headed back.
I later went out to a fish museum with Casey and another American and I had my last cup of wine and taste of Baklava (much better in Turkey than here). I started falling asleep as we settled down back at the hostel and then was whisked off to the airport (my flight left at 2:30 that morning).
I left wanting to go back. I haven't had that much fun or relaxed so much in ages. The trip left me wanting to joing the peace corp or take a year off to travel. I miss it so much and it was a welcome break from the Gulf region.

It's RAINING!!!!!!!!!! No kidding. Really. NOT A JOKE. Okay, so more like sprinkling, but I took a break from chemistry to go dance outside in the rain! WOOHOOO! It is the first time I have seen rain here. IT'S AWESOME!!!! WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!

Hello Everyone! I just wanted to let you people know that I got back to Dubai just fine although I really need to study for a chemistry quiz and a presentation so I will be updating about Turkey a little bit later. It was amazing though and I want to go back. I met a lot of people and I am seriously contemplating a year off... and Peace corp now. A tip for the ladies... don't go to a hostel without your boyfriend or a guy friend who will pretend to be your boyfriend!
Tantalizing enough to make you mad at me for not explaining? Oops.
Here a couple of pictures.


Me at the Palace.


The Basillica Cistern



Me at the top of the Galata Tower



The Stained Glass at the Neve Shalom Temple in Istanbul. It was a pain to get inside! I had permission, but the Jewish Center failed to communicate that I had it so I had to go back the next day after stomping around a whole morning in Istanbul trying to find the center (I never did). Being the stubborn girl that I was, I finally managed to call them and got permission (woot Adri!). Oh, and they said that they loved living in Turkey and that they never got hell from any of the local Muslims. It was only outsiders that gave them problems. Again, more on that later. Enjoy the image. They'll be hard pressed to let you inside.


This is a Turkish Orthodox Church. I rounded out the Muslim Mosques with a little of everything else.

Okay... over and out!

PS-I was not stupid enough to do this, however, some people got kicked out of my hostel for mentioning the Armenian Genocide. Denial apparently is not just a river in Egypt. Oh, and this is the Blue Mosque.

I hate chemistry because of my chemistry professor. It is amazing how demotivating people can be. And cheating here is rampant and so pervasive that it is disheartening for those of us who don't. All the study abroads are having issues with it. Communal society does not mean communal brain people.
I am excited that I will be going to Turkey in week from tomorrow, but I have a lot of work to do until then. And I might finally make it snorkling in Mossendum. Stuff keeps getting in the way! C'est la vie I suppose. I can't wait for Turkey though! Oh, and I got permission to see a few Jewish temples! Yay for being American. WISH ME LUCK!
Okay. Break over. Back to chemistry.